banner



What Size Generator For 3 Ton Heat Pump

  • #2

LRA 77A
230V * 77A = 17,700W

I would get a generator that can handle a 18kW surge. Soft starters can besides exist applied to residential heat pumps and A/C to essentially lower that. I retrieve Micro-air makes one that works on iii ton.

Hedges

Hedges

I See Electromagnetic Fields!

  • #half-dozen

14A, 240V is 3360W (five HP)
Ideally, you lot'd take an inverter and battery capable of delivering the 18 kW starting surge.

Specs for my SI-6048 are 120V, 5750W continuous at 25 degrees C, xi kW for 3 seconds, 180A (21.6 kW) for 60 milliseconds.
There is an off-take chances one of these with 120/240V transformer could outset the compressor.
A pair of them for 120/240V, no problem.

Some other inverters I've seen mentioned on the forum had xviii kW surge. It was a 6kW high-frequency inverter, with xx seconds 18 kW surge. Simply $1200


I think such an inverter with a small auto-start generator (and optional PV) would be a good way to get.

efmrrt

True cat Rancher & Collector

  • #11

Grandma got spooked from the Texas cold and blackouts and wants a generator to run her furnace. Must operate autonomous which pretty much must be a whole business firm unit with auto transfer switch. Might too do it right and size to run the Air conditioning unit during summer hurricanes.

Please ostend my sizing calculations for the 14A running, 77A locked compressor. It appears the absolute minimum is 7.5KW however the Generac charts propose a 16KW which seems excessive.

Will a 10KW generator be acceptable? I can eliminate the microwave, apparel & dishwasher and other nonessential appliances from the transfer switch.

Major benefit of the generator for me: her firm is nearby so will be a reliable source of backup power to run the wall charger on my Powerwheels golf cart.

Let me save yous a ton of money, get a motor soft start for the Ac, a hyper applied science soft commencement. My surge went from 71 amps or xvi-17k watts to 6000-7000. Running wattage is around 4500. I would accept to look at the name plate. My 13 KW could not first it. Now it tin can. Keep in mind The larger you go the more fuel it will burn, it volition price more and it cocky tests monthly which also burns fuel. You can save yourself a ton of headache and just use window units.

Also skip generac. They suck. The engines and alternators are smashing. Everything else on it is fabricated in china and plastic. They suspension often and cost a fortune for modest parts.

Champion makes a actually nice 8.5k unit of measurement that uses a common honda clone single piston engine. In the upshot of a failed engine outside of warranty, information technology shouldn't exist more than than 400-500 dollars to get a replacement engine. Champion parts are very reasonably prices. One of the reasons I use them, its cheaper to repair than buy a new one. Something not very common anymore.

The champion standbys go for 2500-3000ish I call up. They accept a x yr warranty on filigree, not off grid meaning its a standby unit of measurement. 24 volt starter so its going to piece of work no matter how cold it gets. Lots of good reviews and off grid people (who have no warranty) getting 3000+ hours out of it with 0 issues. I highly recommend that and skipping the central air. Go a big donkey window unit if you must and cool just sure parts of the house.

  • #12

Is cost a real factor?

I am besides in Texas and I am getting a 27kw Generac, the RG027. But, I don't demand 27kw (Actually 25kw on NG). Information technology was expensive, but I call back its worth it.

The simply reason I got the 27kw RG027 is that its liquid cooled and just a little more coin than the RG022 which is but 20KW on NG. The Liquid cooled generators run at 1800RPM and take existent car engines, in this case a ii.4l Mitsubishi engine, and they are more than efficient. the RG027 running at one-half load which is 12.5kw uses less natural gas than the air cooled unit at half load producing just 11kw.

The cheaper 999cc 3600rpm air cooled units just don't seem similar they are congenital for the long haul, so if y'all are getting a permanent install, I would become up to the liquid cooled units if you tin can breadbasket the cost. Its my opinion they volition last much longer, and be cheaper in the long run, and they are quieter. Existence liquid cooled they can as well take the brutal Texas heat much better (Which will only become worse...)

My backup programme for power until the generator arrives, and if the Natural Gas always goes out is a 8750w Champion Inverter Generator from Amazon for merely $917 (I think Deveak above might be talking nearly the same one) paired with a Hyper Engineering science SureStart. I tested it last calendar week, and information technology powers my four Ton Air-conditioning plus a bunch of stuff in the business firm no problem. I'g using a 30a inlet with a generator interlock kit. I also ordered the NG Conversion kit for it, and so if my big generator dies, or information technology doesn't arrive before a hurricane, I can yet power the house "adultery" on NG with the portable generator

Personally, I call up the choice should be an expensive liquid cooled unit, and/or a small air cooled portable unit. Skip the permanent air cooled unit, I don't think it should be an choice

  • #fourteen

i would look at used cummins, detroit diesel fuel or caterpillar generators.
I picked up a 125KW Cat for $8000, rebuilt it for $2K,

10 times the output and half what you volition pay for a generac

  • #15

How well-nigh replacing this power (surge) grunter with one or more mini-splits or whole-house estrus-pumps that don't have "surge". Abode Depot has 36,000 BTU mini-spits. For case, my Lennox iv ton heat-pump compressor has a max of 18a@240v = four,320w - e.yard. a more common 7000w generator would piece of work.

The size of generator(southward) discussed to a higher place might cost every bit much equally a mini-split + a common generator :)

  • #16

The Generac 14KW at Lowes was $4200 with tax delivered to my door, plus around $200 for the battery and various gas line fittings. Adjacent Monday a local electrical contractor will install the transfer switch for $1000 with new breakers (I could take done it but I'yard lazy and its hot outside). Total installed price is around $5400. Would have been double+ if I went the piece of cake style and contracted a Generac installer.

Last edited:

  • #17

i agree with offgridinthecity if its merely for AC mini splits is a groovy way to avoid needing a large generator.

those standard 7K gas driven units are loud, i would definately heed to any unit of measurement you lot are because and how loud it is when running if its located close to living space

  • #xviii

those standard 7K gas driven units are loud, i would definately listen to whatever unit you are considering and how loud it is when running if its located close to living space

Regardless of generator noise, it volition still be quieter than Grandmas complaining when she does non take TV or HVAC.

Final edited:

Hedges

Hedges

I Come across Electromagnetic Fields!

  • #xix

i would look at used cummins, detroit diesel or caterpillar generators.
I picked up a 125KW Cat for $8000, rebuilt information technology for $2K,

x times the output and half what you will pay for a generac

Did you install that in your 2009 Bounder?

  • #20

lol bounder can barely pull it, not legally. i think its about 6000lbs plus the steel trailer is probably another 1200-1500
Generator is for the farm mostly for irrigation well pumps. in a dry summer we can hands go thru 3000 gallons of diesel a month.
Farming gets expensive lol.

What Size Generator For 3 Ton Heat Pump,

Source: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/sizing-a-whole-house-generator-for-a-3-ton-air-conditioner.18645/

Posted by: dukesligh1984.blogspot.com

0 Response to "What Size Generator For 3 Ton Heat Pump"

Post a Comment

Iklan Atas Artikel

Iklan Tengah Artikel 1

Iklan Tengah Artikel 2

Iklan Bawah Artikel